Aunt Julie and her friend Laura took me on a 20 day road trip
around the west. We started off driving down the coast, making it all the
way to Crescent City, California on the first day. We explored the
Redwoods and walked around a bit, then stayed in Berkley, a suburb of San
Francisco, in this cute adobe house belonging to an old friend of
Julie's.
Then we continued our drive down the California coast.
I've never felt as cool as I did there. I bought these shades and
borrowed a leather jacket from someone- definitely Cali style. The coast
was teeming with surfers, wild waves, and big green mountains. We stayed
in Santa Barbara with another friend of Julie's. Santa Barbara is one of
the greatest towns in America. The streets are lined with palm trees and
gardens, and the downtown area has flags of all colors, shapes, and sizes
hanging off the sides of buildings. It had a rather festive atmosphere;
all of southern California is like that. My God, I even got into a bar,
and I was only 11. The Sonics were playing the Jazz in the Western
Conference Finals, and all these Lakers fans hated the Sonics, so I was the
only one shouting for joy when the Sonics won that game. Suckers!
That night I remember showing off my Mario skills by
defeating the entire game of Super Mario World (SNES) for that woman’s
son. Soren was his name, and he hadn’t ever been able to get very far
playing it. I hadn’t played it in a few years, but I still managed
to show him through the levels. Super Mario World is a lot like our
own. There are different landscapes and creatures on every corner of
every island. Being the state with the most amount of ecosystems,
California might resemble it better than any other. If only there were
mountains made out of chocolate there, then it would be a perfect
replica. (In fact there is a place called the Chocolate Mountains in this
state, but I don't think they taste like chocolate!).
Then came the notorious ferry ride from
Long Beach to Catalina Island. On the ferry we met up with my other
aunts, my uncle, and my adorable grandmother. That was when all Hell
broke loose. They all vomited on the ferry due to some extreme sinusoidal
wave action. Luckily, I was the only one who didn't. I’ve never
even gotten seasick before, and I’m not sure why the rest of them did.
There must be some biological mechanism that warns humans against being on the
water, reminding us that we really belong on land. This is non-existent
for sailors, so perhaps there’s a bit of the seafarer’s blood in me.
Avalon is the Catalina “capital”, a total
night town. Why were we going there of all places? My other aunt
Mary, who was a comedian that owned a sushi bar there, lives on the island and
that’s where she was getting married. She’s somewhat famous on the
island; she’s been in television commercials, one which I saw early in
childhood. She could be more famous than she already is, but Julie thinks
she’s never wanted fame, which is why she stays there. Anyways, the
atmosphere of that wedding was her in a nutshell. It wasn’t a traditional
one set in a mansion or church. This one was set in a tropical garden,
and had a man who was balancing a fruit basket on his head as he walked down
the aisle. People were laughing the whole time. Everyone was so
laid back, and I couldn't believe what was happening because I'd always had a
more traditional idea of what a wedding was supposed to be like.
After the wedding we said goodbye to
everyone, leaving on the same boat we came in on (no one vomited this time).
I navigated us through the maze of freeways in Los Angeles and we made like
roadrunners for the desert. My aunt was impressed with my navigational
skills. My whole family thinks I'm a navigational prodigy, taken after my
grandfather who was a pilot in World War 2. The first indication that I
had above average visual intelligence came about when I was about three years
old and sitting in the back seat of a car. We drove past the street that
lead to our house and I indicated that we had passed it. My other aunt
Kathy was amazed that a three year old who didn’t even know how to communicate
could have the ability to do that.
A lot of times when I came home from school, I’d look at
maps and imagine what each place on them looked like. I’d project myself
onto the maps and imagine myself traveling on their roads, approaching any
major city and national park my mind saw fit. I’d known what the Seattle
skyline looked like, but not any other cities. My mind didn’t care
though; it had the power to construct buildings out of thin air, and I even
tried to draw some of the skylines that had conjured inside my head.
That’s why going on road trips is one of my favorite things to do. The
reality of a road trip always confronts my imagination with surprising results.
Los Angeles was definitely one of those cities I’d imagined driving through, so
to finally accomplish that was something I was proud of doing.
Fortunately, we didn’t get stuck in any of the city’s notorious traffic jams!
Anyways, I digress. Where were we going after
L.A.? You guessed it- Las Vegas, the quintessential party town! But
Vegas was only a pitstop- no bars or fun there. It actually rained when
we were there, can you believe it?
The road trip only got better as time
went on. We drove up into Utah and hiked the Zion Canyon. I
remember feeling like an Indian warlord because I’d found a walking stick that
was in the shape of a spear. I’d use it to ward off invisible enemies on
the hiking trail; ones that threatened to kidnap the people I was
protecting. After Zion we saw Bryce Canyon, which has a grand assortment
of rocky columns everywhere. I remember being utterly baffled by nature
for the first time when I saw that place. It has a certain otherworldly quality
that demands one to expand their mind, or admit that everything they knew was
only on the surface of a much broader sphere.
It snowed on our way to the north rim of
the Grand Canyon. The canyon was everything I expected it to be.
You can walk on the rim and there are no railings. It totally freaked out
Julie, but not me. I made it all the way to this "island" out
there, where there were vistas of the canyon on all sides. The atmosphere
of that vista is something I’ll never forget. The only bad thing about it
was that other tourists were swarming over the views, too busy taking pictures
to really appreciate the scenery. I am dismayed by modern tourism's
mantra, “Lets take a picture and walk away", even though I am guilty of it
sometimes. It rips the heart from a genuine experience and pastes it on a
piece of paper for eternity. Call me old school, but I’d rather live in
the present and soak in the experiences of my travels instead of worry about
what they’d look like on camera.
They introduced me to a lot of weird music on that trip -
techno and acid jazz. I remember the strange sounds of Depeche Mode,
Delerium, Waterlillies, the Blade Runner soundtrack, and the freakish yodeling
of an 808 State song. Stuff I had never heard before. It made the terrain
all the more atmospheric for me.
The scorching barrens of the desert yielded to the soaring
peaks of the Rockies as we headed north on I25. We hardly stopped at all
in Colorado. Pike’s Peak was but a drifting stranger on the north breeze,
and Denver was too boring to pass up a nap on. Wyoming was much of the
same, but this time we veered away from the Rockies on our way to the Black
Hills, in South Dakota. There we saw the Crazy Horse Memorial, which
would be the largest sculpture in the world if it were finished by now.
It’s carved out of a mountain that’s even larger than Mt. Rushmore (which we
saw later). Only the face of the great Sioux warrior was finished when we
saw it; the rest of his body and the horse he rode on was just a huge chunk of
granite that hadn’t even resembled the forms they were supposed to take
yet. Rushmore didn’t impress Julie all that much. She’d been
expecting that quartet of presidents to be larger and more awe-inspiring than
it appears in photographs. But Mt. Rushmore isn’t the kind of Herculean
wonder that stands out on the horizon the way Mt. Rainier does. After
all, the grandiosity of man-made objects still pale in comparison to those of
nature.
If you’re ever in this part of the
country, the Badlands is a place that can’t be missed. Only 40 miles away
from Mt. Rushmore, it contains some of the largest Oligocene fossil beds in the
world. Its hills are made by sedimentary rocks that were eroded by rain
and wind to form bizarrely-shaped ridges that are stratified in color.
They’re separated by large grasslands that are fed on by bison and bighorn
sheep. The Lakota tribe called it “Mako Sica”, or “bad land”, because of
its extreme temperature and scarcity of water. Walking in that strange
landscape, we heard the disturbing sound of rattlesnakes slithering on the sand
as the sun set over the pointy ridges. We spent a spooky night in one the
cabins in the center of it all, hearing a wind that howled over the sands all
night, as if its mission were to make the area’s namesake felt in the base of
one’s spine. One of my mom’s dreams is that some biker will steal her
away and take her here on a motorcycle, but she never tells me who it is.
I imagine it’s probably Bruce Springsteen; he wrote a song called Badlands and
it’s one of her favorites.
The next day we started west, finally
heading in the direction of home. A major thunderstorm surprised us in
Wyoming; it was terrifying and beautiful at the same time. The raindrops
were as big as water balloons and the lightning was as thick as the veins of
Thor. Bolts of green, red, purple and gold dropped from the clouds in
stupendous arrays of synchronized color. Laura tried to take a picture of
the lightning, but it was too fast for her.
Just after crossing the Continental
Divide, we saw a long range of snow-capped peaks off in the distance.
This was the Teton range, which oddly lacks any foothills on its eastern side,
offering travelers like ourselves some stunning views from Jackson Hole.
The range’s name derives from “les trois tetons”, so called by French voyageurs
when they thought the mountains resembled three breasts. These mountains,
known for their aesthetic charm, are an icon of the west, and have been shown
on film in several westerns. Grand Teton, the largest of them, stood
majestically in a tear-jerking scene from the movie "Shane". My
experience of seeing it was every bit as moving and memorable as it was in that
scene.
Julie's car, the poor little Mustang, was exhausted after
driving up another 8,000 foot pass. I think by then we were all getting a
little travel weary. I couldn't wait to get home after 16 days on the
road. Idaho, Oregon, Mt Rainier, and back to Seattle we went. I'll
never forget arriving at grandma's just in time for Sunday dinner, the look my
mom gave me when she saw after being away so long, and the Sonics winning the
Western Conference Championship over the Jazz, all in one in evening. It
was a prime time for celebration and story. I am very privileged to have
witnessed such amazing things at an early age. Thanks, Julie & Laura!
Sunday, September 7, 2008
The West Coast Super Trip
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