August 13, 2018
In Thailand we were welcomed with a wonderful reception by Jim and Moo, Oak and Rung, and the boys Kanna and Nong Kyo. Daddy Moo drove us through the city center, where we got to see the skytrain, some wats, and all the irregular buildings that dot the skyline of Bangkok. From far away it looks like any other American city, modernized to the "T"; but up close the nuances of Thai culture add a unique flavor to our age's metropolitan anthem that all cities be designed the same. Such things as tuk-tuks, golden iconographies, and sporadic portraits of the monarchy reminded us of the exotic heritage of the Thai people. That being said, you won't find quite the array of uniquely designed buildings in any American city as you would in Bangkok. Even New York and Chicago, our two pillars of concrete that birthed the almighty skyscraper, can't quite compete. Bangkok has as many oddly shaped buildings as you might find in a child's drawing of some imagined place. One in particular, which Oak says is the most famous, bears a resemblance to a Jenga castle, in which intermittent slabs are either removed or chiseled into place like it were part of the game. Among many things, Bangkok is a city of architecture, something I hadn't expected. The city oddly has a futuristic appeal, with many of the drivers using motorbikes through narrow streets, the giant billboard screens that illuminate the buildings, the elaborately large shopping malls, and the fascinating designs. One would have thought this developing urban area would look less like Tokyo and more like Calcutta.
Moo followed Oak, who took us to a delightful courtyard of Chinese decorations and rice fields. Flutes played in the background, red lanterns lit up the evening, steamers on the Chao Praya river moved past with slow purpose; everything seemed to be bathed in the serenity of a calm Sunday evening in Thailand, when families reunite and all the country resets itself for the week ahead. Mom and I had our first authentic Thai meal. There was stir fry, squid, enormous shrimp whose heads weren't even removed, coconut milk soup, and some odd yellow substance which was a bit spicy for my liking. We'd never had a meal quite like it before; surely, the East Asians dine with a rawness that presents food in its natural state, without all the superficial conventions that soften our fears. In addition, the food here is just plain better; it tastes like real food, without all the chemicals added on our American farms.
I can't forget to mention Oak's boys, Kanna and Nong Kyo, two bundles of energy that brought a lot of fire to the evening. Kanna was so excited to meet me that he jumped up and down and swarmed me with attention, like he couldn't tell I'd just been traveling for over 20 hours. I couldn't count all the times he called me Uncle Chris as he showered me with all his toys and impressed me with his strength and his English, which really is quite good for a five-year-old. He was so upset when we retired to our hotel that he cried; both the boys, really. Nong Kyo is a little too young to remember who I am, but in a few years, I can tell he'll be more like his brother, perhaps a little less rambunctious yet still as loving and kind.
8/14 Autthaya
Today we explored an ancient city in the heart of Thailand. It's called Autthaya, the old capital of an empire that ruled this country from about a thousand years ago to the creation of Siam. Crumbling temples, pagodas, and stupas are everywhere here; the Thais refer to each complex containing them as a wat. Daddy Moo says there are at least a hundred wats in this city alone, and I wouldn't doubt him, for we saw at least 30 on the main road.
Autthaya must have been one of the most beautiful cities of its time. I inquired if there were any paintings that represented the city when it was thriving, but Kairika doesn't know of any.
Her brother Spice took me up a large stupa to view the surrounding countryside. It was a difficult climb for most because the air was saturated with humidity. Breathing was heavy and sweat poured at an instant. I'd say it was worth the climb, if only to imagine what the wat would have looked like from the grand stupa in ancient times. There would have been many golden Buddhas, all sitting in lines around the complex, with heads shown as calm as the peace the empire had before their invaders decapitated them.
The highlight of the day was getting a chance to make burnt offerings to the Buddha inside the temple. It’s probably the only religious ritual I've ever performed: perfectly appropriate, seeing as Buddhism has always appealed to me the most. The myths and iconographies of Christianity and Judaism do give me a lot of meaning, but the teachings of Buddhism have resonated with me the most. My offering was a blessing to our baby in Kairika's belly, rounded like the smooth stone of the flowery Buddha's body. Most people in the temple came to make similar offerings. I've read that many come to the temples to meditate, though that might be impossible with all of us tourists distracting them.
8/16/18 The Shark Tunnel
Something pretty cool happened today. We walked through a shark tunnel! The tunnel was surrounded by water on all sides, except for the ground. When you look just above your head, you can expect to see a number of different shark species, sting rays, and other aquatic citizens from the Gulf of Thailand. This special aquarium is located at Paragon, right in the center of Bangkok.
Later we were surprised by two hours of traffic jams and a major rainstorm that frightened us. The road was so covered in water that it looked like it might flood. But the rain mercifully let up before anything dangerous happened. We changed plans and had a nice homemade dinner at Oak’s (we were told his wife Rung cooked the whole meal). Kanna and Nong Kyo got to show me all their toys- mostly dinosaurs, to no one’s surprise.
To cap off the night we got another tour of the city, this time in the royal quarter, where the streets are alight with the color of glory, and wats that shine brilliantly around every turn. We walked the Khao San road, where aggressive vendors offered us fried scorpions, squid on sticks, and other strange delicacies. This short street seems to be the night capital of Bangkok, filled with loud bars full of tourists having a good time. We also visited Chinatown, which consists of another short road, this one filled to the brim with food vendors and neon billboards that reminded me of the Las Vegas strip.
8/17/18 Wat Phra Kaeo
I have seen New Jerusalem, and it lies in Bangkok. Wat Phra Kaeo is the most stunning religious monument I’ve seen, and I’ve seen the Vatican. Golden temples encrusted with jewels of all kinds mesmerize the eye. Carvings of mythical Buddhist beasts surround them in static loyalty. Inside the main temple, they let you meditate in front of a holy shrine, pyramidal in shape, which holds up an emerald Buddha at the top, which is actually jade, but I believe "Temple of the Jade Buddha" is already taken as a place name in China. The number of artifacts on the shrine is mind-boggling. It reminded me of the Sistine Chapel because there were paintings everywhere (except for the ceiling). However, the holiest chapel of art in Christianity comes short compared to this temple, if not for the fact that the shrine outshines almost any altar. Michelangelo would have needed a lot more help to rival it.
8/18/18 The Floating Market
Imagine the most crowded street on Earth, then put it inside a canal. That’s what Bangkok’s floating market looks like. The main canal is filled to the brim with canoes jostling for position while vendors struggle to get everyone's attention. Most people come simply to witness the crazy spectacle and not actually buy anything. It's nearly a wonder how they stay in business, until you realize they probably have second jobs in the afternoon, after the market closes. We, however, did buy gifts. I saw this cool contraption made of springs and green filaments that looked like a miniature transformer. Mom suggested giving it to my brother, but Kanna wanted it so bad that I let him have it. I should have gotten two, oh well. Many of these vendors sell the same items; I'm sure they're all in cahoots with some manufacturer that makes cheap, meaningless tourist products. Will look out for another to give to Jason when we're shopping later. Oak got him a Thai bongo drum for his 30th birthday, even though he's never met him. He's just a very giving person. I think he takes after his dad, so does Kairika. This is a tremendously generous family.
There were many more canals in this floating market, most which we didn't have enough time to explore. The place is a total labyrinth of meaningless stuff, although one shop did sell the decent artwork of a man who was painting on the spot. Oak once again showed his virtue by buying two of the paintings: one for us and one for mom. 8/19/18 Skytrain, Asiatique Market, Wat Arun
The skytrain was a disappointment. Crowded like a New York subway, there was nowhere to sit and nothing to see. We'd been expecting a nice little cabin where we could sit and watch the city go by. Mom accurately mentioned how spoiled we are in America, heh.
Asiatique market was another tourist trap- actually a good thing because I was able to find what I was looking to get for my brother. And I found other gifts for pretty much everyone important in my life; a John Lennon t-shirt for Jay, an abstract cat sewn on a pillow cushion for Julie; lavender soap for Rhonda; traditional Thai fridge magnets for everyone else.
We had dinner across the river from Wat Arun, a romantic, tall structure that reminded me of the Eiffel Tower in some ways. At twilight it lit up with the same golden color as Paris' greatest attraction. The Kingkaeos really know how to show guests their city. 8/22/18 Krabi Babymoon
And now for the best part of the trip, our "babymoon" in Krabi. We call it a babymoon because it's more than just a honeymoon- we are celebrating new life as well. Ao Nong Resort gave us the best room they have, right on the shore: simultaneously the Indian Ocean, Andaman Sea, Malabar Strait, and the famed Phang Nga Bay, all in one. On the bed the staff left us a swan made of towels that was sprinkled with flowers. It was a spectacular arrival.
The weather was the only disappointment here. It just wouldn't cooperate with our plans. Here's a tip: never travel to Thailand during monsoon season. [Unfortunately, we had no choice, due to government delays and the pregnancy. Going in August was really our only option]. We wanted to go driving around the bay to see the sites, but the clouds were as stubborn as glue. We did end up renting a car and driving all the way around to Phuket, but hardly anything was accessible. I was desperate to find a road leading to James Bond Island and its surroundings, but there just weren't any. The best way to see the bay is by boat, but since my wife's pregnant it wouldn't have been wise to do that. So, we had no choice but to engage in the futility of finding that beautiful place by pavement. Coupling that with the weather, it was just plain bad luck that we didn't get to see it.
Highlights from our time in Krabi were getting to watch a whole sunset on the beach, walking in the water with the waves hitting our feet, discovering the tasty ice cream of a Haagen Dazs shop, and driving through the limestone mountains- a type of mountain I hadn't seen in person yet. Krabi is one of those places where the sheer beauty of it makes up for any complications due to weather.
On the last day we decided to do absolutely nothing, which ended up being the best decision we made all trip. Our afternoon was spent watching the ocean from inside our little "beach house", meditating on the waves as they crashed ashore, eyes following the boats as they skipped over the waves, the trees ruffled by the wind, the swimmers daring each wave to take them out to sea and always succeeding. The scene was enhanced by the tranquil music of a band perfectly suited for such an environment: you guessed it, Beach House, one of my favorite bands of the decade. As time went on things got more intimate; we ended the afternoon by making love as close to the seashore as we probably ever will.
Later I taught Kairika how to play poker. Wouldn't you know it, she won! And I wasn't even going easy on her. It was surreal; I just couldn't buy a good hand. I made back all the money I lost on the one good hand I got. But then another ungodly streak left me broke and going all in on nothing. I couldn't even bluff my way out of it, for she is so new at the game that bluffing hasn't tarnished her trust.
That evening I was ecstatic to find Avatar: The Last Airbender on Netflix, my favorite cartoon ever. I thought she might like it, and she sure did, so we binge watched it for the rest of the day.
Thus it was that the day least planned ended up being the best. Like many things in life, the less resistance you have, the more good things will come.
No comments:
Post a Comment